On Day 2, we had found a strip of rental car stores across the street from our hotel, so we reserved a car for Day 3 at Hertz...which turned that next morning into our precious-hours-on-a-trip-wasted episode. It seems there's always one.
A friend had recommended breakfast at Dottie's True Blue Cafe, so we got there around 8am for breakfast, and stood in line until 9am, when we bailed to go pick up our car. Except that Hertz said it was being cleaned so come back at 10am. We picked up breakfast at Walgreens (I know, I can't get used to that idea either) and came back to be told to wait along with the roomful of other disgruntled travelers. By 11am, Josh had found a car-that-is-actually-ready-to-drive at Alamo, so we cancelled the Hertz and were finally headed out of the city by 12noon. Moral of the story: Don't be a sheep. If we'd looked elsewhere at the first sign of trouble (9am), or at least called to confirm the car was ready, we might've saved those 3 hours of waiting or spent them eating Dottie's famous omelets.
Moving right along, you'll see soon that it was a gorgeous, clear, sunny day EXCEPT for the Golden Gate, which we're driving through in the pic above right. Yes, this is a picture of the bridge. We are ON it. ;)
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| Looking back at "the golden gate" (the corridor where they built the bridge--which stole its name--and where the fog rolls in) |
MUIR WOODS
Just across the gate, "behind" Sausalito, is a labyrinth of arid hills and hidden valleys. We parked off the highway and rode a bus along the windy roads with the almost unbelievable promise that we would eventually find a grove of gigantic redwoods hiding somewhere.
And then, somehow, there they were. Right out of Tolkein. Or Wonderland. I half expected an Ewok to pop out. The weather was cool and clear and perfect for a good hike before we grabbed lunch and returned to the car, northward bound.
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| Muir Woods (where the main path--far right--is actually a boardwalk to protect the tree roots) |
SONOMA
From Sausalito to Sonoma, the landscape levels out to giant plains of brown grass. It was hard to imagine vines could grow here. Or anything else. We pulled off at the first winery we encountered because it truly was an oasis amidst the nothingness. Up on a hill, with a pond, under the burning sun. We quickly learned that all the cold breezes of San Francisco do NOT reach wine country, so we gave up our jackets under the 100-degree sun.
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| Ramsgate Winery -- the first as you enter Sonoma |
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| at Domaine Carneros, a little further into Sonoma |
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| The chateau at Domaine Carneros was beautiful, though I was a little disappointed to discover it's basically just a store/restaurant (no one lives in it, though it is a replica of the French owner's summer home in France). This seemed true at all the wineries; the "lodges" are very stylish and elegant but not actual homes. |
As you can probably tell from the pictures, Sonoma was my favorite part of our day - probably of our whole trip. It's not very far from the city but feels like another world. It's not built up (which I found baffling). It's sunny, open, a mix of hills/plains, and just so beautifully groomed. It reminded me of the home/vineyard in the 1998 Parent Trap movie (which is actually up in Yountville, but close enough).
NAPA VALLEY
Due to our morning delay, we didn't get to Sonoma until after 4pm, and everything was getting ready to close at 6pm.
So, we opted to walk around a couple Sonoma wineries and then just drive up Hwy29 through Napa to at least see what it looks like (see map at right).
The mostly 2-lane highway is lined with flat vineyards on either side, each with its own elegant visitors' center. Beyond the vineyards is a ring of low hills that makes it a literal valley (above is the view most of the way through the valley). There are a few very small towns at the north end that are bisected by the highway, but the town of Napa is actually an exit off the highway, and is a full suburban-style town with the same Target and Applebees, etc. that you'd find anywhere. It was a bit surprising, and made me a little wistful for Sonoma, where nothing seemed the least bit realistic.
Still, we did find a few notable sites in Napa... Like the little-known Napa OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER which supposedly shoots 30' into the air every half hour or so -- unless you pour detergent down the hole to make it shoot further sooner (according to the sole attendant). This under-appreciated "Wonder of Nature" has a little family-owned park set up around it, and charges $14/person admission to see behind the wall that hides the geyser. I particularly loved the clocks showing the "Three Old Faithful Geysers of the World" (Yellowstone, New Zealand, and...Napa! Who knew?) and the American flag which had to be taller than the geyser itself, though we didn't pay to see behind the wall. It had camp (the style, not the place) written all over it.
We also followed the circuitous signs in the town of Napa to the "historic" downtown by the river. It appears they rehabbed a block or two when the rich tourists started visiting, but I was really surprised to see they didn't have more to show for their fame. Downtown Napa has nothing on downtown Franklin.
Then again, no one is there for the town. Which is why I'd like to go back someday if we're in the area - not for the wine but for the scenery. And because I enjoyed it so much more than the city. I'd probably go to Healdsburg (based on a good friend's rec), the Staglin Winery in Yountville (because I love that movie way more than it deserves), and the Castello di Amorosa because it's a castle (duh).
Next up? I go to prison on San Francisco, Day 4.
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