OXFORD, Part 1

(Note: If you'd rather start at the beginning of our trip, check out Why We Fled the Country and just follow the links at the end of each post.)

People are often surprised that Josh travels so much for work. After all, doctors don't usually have to go very far to see patients... But Josh spends more than 80% of his time doing peer-reviewed scientific research, all of it in collaboration with institutions in other states--or in this case, countries.

He has been working with folks (and by "folks" I mean KNIGHTS - Aaron nearly ate his shirt when he found out) at Oxford University for months, but they'd come here. It was his turn to travel, so I sacrificially agreed to accompany him. This meant 2 material changes to our circumstances:

1. We stayed at an elegant boutique hotel right in the middle of everything.
2. I had 1.5 days to enjoy on my own while Josh slaved away.

Old Bank Hotel
The hotel was full of art that I loved - except perhaps for the creepy lady outside the staircase window.

Yep, that's a Stradivarius top right. And the back of a guy's head bottom right. (??) Love it.

They had turn-down service in the evenings, towel warmers, bathrobes, tea sachets, free walking tours, 24-hour room service, etc, etc, etc. Mmmm. There is something to be said for luxury.

With Josh headed out early both mornings, I slept in. Ahhh. Then I went to a local cafe for tea and muesli with yogurt while reading Surprised by Oxford (a rec from two women I adore, who were both absolutely right).

Finally, I crossed the street to begin wandering among the old stone buildings and colleges and churches and pubs until it was time to go back for a run, shower, afternoon tea, and then meet-up with Josh.

It. was. heaven.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

New College
The first street (which looked suspiciously like an alley) wound me around to this little (5ft?) door...

...which of course I had to enter, and found myself suddenly in New College. It has been "new" since 1379 (which would explain the leetle door). It is one of 38 (mostly residential) colleges that together compose the University of Oxford. Students and fellows (teachers/tutors) live, eat, sleep, study, and worship here together.

A courtyard typical of the older colleges at Oxford (and Cambridge for that matter).

Recognize this courtyard? this tree? It was in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire (when Draco becomes a ferret).

Also typical: a garden in the back, though this one is bordered by a section of the old city wall (about 1,000 years old). There's also this odd "mound" in the middle with stairs leading to...nowhere. Just an ornamental piece and originally a viewing platform for seeing over the wall.

Can you imagine hearing you've been accepted to New College Oxford and then finding out you'll be tucked back in this 1970s addition? I don't think I'd be in my room much...

Bridge of Sighs
The name could not be any cooler, and while it is just a footbridge, it's on the b-roll for anything shot and set in Oxford (including Endeavour, Inspector Morse, and Inspector Lewis - more on these beloved friends later).

As I walked around that morning, I was delighted to see flocks of students in white ties and black gowns: They wear Hogwarts dress robes to class!?

No. But they do wear them to graduation, which happened to be that morning. I suppose that could make Rowling a little less creative than I thought, but I'd just say it makes Oxford cooler than ever.

Bodlein Library
My favorite guided tour in Oxford was at the Bodlein Library. One of the first ("modern") libraries, it was founded by a Catholic in the 1400s, all the books were then destroyed by Henry VII, and then it was re-founded by Bloody Mary in the 1600s. Books laid flat and were chained to the shelves until someone came up with the idea of standing books together spine-in (titles weren't printed on spines till later). Fascinating history of the school and of how we store knowledge...

The top is the original Divinity School, also a Harry Potter set. Bottom is where the ruling council for the University used to meet - and my tour guide who was the perfect British librarian. He even wore a cardigan.

The Bodlein also has an exhibit running called "Magical Books" about the fantasy genre and its themes in literature. Since everywhere I visited was featured as 1) a Harry Potter set, or 2) a favorite haunt of the Inklings (Tolkien, Lewis, Sayers), this exhibit seemed only natural. It also made me wonder, Am I touring a school, a church, a film set, or the past? (Yes.)

Christ Church Park
After the library, I popped by the hotel and then went out for a jog through the park behind Christ Church (College). It is rightly famous for being so pastoral right in the middle of town.

Tea Time
After a shower, I ducked into the "Vaults & Gardens" tea room in St. Mary's church to read, eat a scone, and savor their better-than-donut-filling strawberry jam.

This is where Josh found me after work.
 
Dinner at Quod
Then, he got me into dinner with the working group -- a delicious 3-course meal in a private room at our hotel. I wish I could say it was at a round table, but everyone came unarmed, so I suppose it wasn't necessary. Thankfully, I sat next to an un-knighted (but not benighted) doctor who reads novels, has three children, and seemed to match my interest in discussing faith and culture (no small feat). It reminded me of our dinner with friends in Paris - refreshing, enlightening, delicious, fun. Needless to say, I am determined to follow up with her in case we ever return.

The Inspectors
We ended the day in our room with an episode of our favorite BBC detective series, Inspector Lewis (traditional murder mysteries set in contemporary Oxford). And this time, we recognized where the bodies were dropping, where the police were walking, and even where the suspects were drinking tea (the Vaults & Gardens!). Who knew Oxford was such a dangerous place? Well, maybe not exactly dangerous, but definitely intriguing.

For the last post on our trip, check out OXFORD, Part 2.