Before we get to the City of Light, we must savor the flights that took us there. Quiet. Climate-controlled. Completely chore-free, kid-free, FREE TIME. We scarfed up airplane food (it's as pathetic as it looks, but somehow still fun because I did not make it), wrestled a crossword puzzle, read, watched Beautiful Creatures, and tried (and failed) to get a night's sleep. It was all lovely in that all-nighter-at-35-but-not-because-of-babies way...
To their credit, we were approached by several strangers during our time in Paris who saw the lost-puppy looks on our faces and offered in broken English to help. The Parisians were overwhelmingly friendly. Unfortunately, their signs are not. The names of the Metro (subway) stops often don't match from one map (in your hands) to another (on the train), and the maps themselves are hard to come by - not to mention the Metro is enormous and confusing. Next time, I'd pick a hotel closer to Notre Dame so I don't have to spend so much time in transit.
That said, I was reminded on this rainy visit that I do love city buses which let you ride through and absorb the city in dry comfort for very little money. There is also something to be said for observing a cross-section of natives on the subway. Notably, I never saw a Parisian eating en route to anywhere (even on our 8-hour bus trip - more on that later). I'm not sure they understand the concept of fast food...which could explain a lot.
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| Our hotel (Champerret-Elysees) which was cheap, clean, quiet, and connected (love me some fast WIFI), though a little too far north. |
Musee D'Orsay
Mistake #2: Once we'd checked in, we headed straight to our top priority destination: The Musee D'Orsay, which had been closed during our last joint trip to Paris, and whose art we both adore. We were just in time for a guided tour by a charming Parisian whose explanation of the environment into which impressionism was born was helpful and (totally my fault) soporific. Jetlag hit with a bang. Josh caught me sleeping on a bench while the guide talked on. Glad we saw it, and I learned something...I think. But if you ask me about the art, my response may sound oddly dream-like.
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| No pictures are allowed of the paintings, but the interior decorating was worth a few on its own. |
Best Dinner
We went straight home for a nap so we could enjoy our best meal of the trip: dinner at Ambassade d'Auvergne with some delightful Parisians Josh had gotten to know (through work) on his last trip. It was my first time visiting with locals on an international trip (I don't have many opportunities to make friends with folks living on other continents), and it set me to scheming: Josh is now under orders to be very friendly with charming scientists who live in attractive vacation destinations.
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| If you're ever in the neighborhood, you must get: the mushroom-fig cassoulet, salmon and lentil appetizer, pork cheek in gravy, cheesy mashed potatoes ("aligot"), fresh bread with pate, roast duck, pots de creme (eaten counterclockwise) and a giant bowl of dark chocolate mousse (no resemblance to the gray cool whip we give that name). |
Musee de l'Orangerie
The next day we tackled another impressionist museum: L'Orangerie. Which still makes me think it's full of oranges, event after I've been there and not seen a single orange. It was phenomenal. Probably because I was awake. The first two rooms look like this...
...designed by Monet for his water-lily frescoes, to provide a haven of peace during wartime (or life). As you turn in the room and relax your eyes, you can imagine you're in the middle of the never-ending pond as the light changes from sunrise to sunset. It's like the still-life version of performance art.
The lower galleries hold a manageable number of paintings that run the gamut from gorgeous (Renoir, whose peaches came the closest to upholding the museum name) to fun (Soutine - his chef below) to haunting (Chanel by Laurencin, bottom left) to repulsive (I'll spare you the Rousseau).
Eglise Saint-Severin
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| Found this little statuette in a random corner of a random church (St Severin) in the Latin Quarter, and he took my breath away. Such strength and gentleness. It's of St Vincent de Paul, a 16th century French priest who spent 60 years serving the poor. Based just on that info and this sculpture, I have to believe he was an inspiring (and magnetic) reflection of Christ. I prefer not to think about what has happened to his parish in the years since. |
Pont de Solferino
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| Ever since we saw the movie Now You See Me, we knew we'd have to buy a lock, so we went through the ceremony of writing on it, locking it to the bridge, and throwing the key in the Seine. Then we kept walking along the Seine and discovered we'd actually done it on a different bridge. The original was getting too full, so some enterprising Parisians started it on a few others. Now, you can pretty much take your pick. #whoknew |
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| Coco Chanel's first store/home/studio (found in Forever Paris). Josh convinced me to walk inside despite the imposing bouncers at every door. I glanced at one $55k watch and $3500 little black dress, then left for our 10€ lunch in my $12 H&M dress... |
Latin Quarter
In some ways, this is my favorite neighborhood in Paris. On the Left Bank of the Seine, it used to be the student district but has since been taken over by tourists. There are skeins of international shops, people, and restaurants with competing price fixe menus and outdoor seating.
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| Our very French 3-course late lunch at an outdoor cafe. Josh's turkey was delicious; my steak was inedible; the cafe de creme was dark and creamy; the atmosphere was relaxed and festive and...French. Not bad for 20€. |
More to come in PARIS, Part 2.
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